Down the Nile by Felucca
Egypt, October 1999
We had reached Aswan by rail. Now, sitting at the water's edge on the terrace of the Isis Corniche hotel, we wondered how to get back. We fantasised about cosy, oldfashioned steamers hosting a handful of Agatha Christie suspects. They don't exist anymore. The glistening five-star, five-tier floating wedding cakes that now ply the Nile have at least 80 cabins. And all of them were chockablock.